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"I arrive at Chris Onstad's Northeast Portland home holding a red cooler containing two pounds of ungulate testicles - yak and buffalo, to be exact. Our plan is to attack these balls with the culinary equivalent of a swift, unexpected kick to the groin. We're going to cook like we mean it, and 'nut up,' as it were - hopefully emerging with something not simply edible, but downright delicious.
When you're in Onstad's kitchen you've got to come correct, with a certain sense of bravado. After all, he's the creator of the beloved internet comic Achewood; ... and he's the author of the self-published The Achewood Cookbook: Recipes for a Lady or a Man, with a second cookbook coming very soon."